In the history of fashion, few garments have challenged social norms, redefined gender boundaries, and created as much controversy as Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking. When it debuted in 1966, this women’s tuxedo suit didn’t just push boundaries—it obliterated them. The story of Le Smoking is not merely about a piece of clothing; it’s about liberation, rebellion, and the dawn of modern fashion as we know it.
The Man Behind the Revolution: Yves Saint Laurent
Before we delve into Le Smoking‘s creation, we must understand the visionary who dared to dress women in men’s suits. Born in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, Yves Saint Laurent showed an early aptitude for design that would eventually reshape the fashion landscape. His journey from a nervous young designer at Christian Dior to founding his own maison is a testament to his revolutionary vision and unwavering determination.
When Saint Laurent opened his couture house in 1961, he was already known for his innovative approach to fashion. But no one could have predicted how he would challenge the very foundations of feminine dress codes just five years later.
The Birth of Le Smoking: A Spark of Inspiration
The inception of Le Smoking came at a pivotal moment in social history. The 1960s were a time of radical change, with women fighting for equal rights and questioning traditional roles. Saint Laurent found inspiration in the most unlikely of places: the traditional men’s smoking jacket.
The designer had long been fascinated by masculine clothing, particularly the way actresses like Marlene Dietrich had worn men’s suits in the 1930s. However, what Saint Laurent envisioned was not merely a woman in men’s clothing—it was a complete reinvention of masculine dress codes for the female form.
I was deeply struck by a photograph of Marlene Dietrich wearing men’s clothes. A tuxedo, a blazer or a naval officer’s uniform – a woman dressed as a man must be at the height of femininity to fight against a costume that isn’t hers.
Yves Saint Laurent
Crafting the Perfect Suit: The Details That Made History
Le Smoking was revolutionary not just in concept but in execution. Saint Laurent obsessed over every detail: the sharp shoulders, the satin lapels, the perfect cut of the trousers. The jacket was tailored to enhance the female form while maintaining the powerful silhouette of menswear. The trousers were cut to elongate the leg, while still allowing for movement and comfort.
The designer insisted on using the finest materials: grain de poudre wool for the suit, silk satin for the lapels, and mother-of-pearl buttons that caught the light just so. Each element was carefully considered to create a perfect balance between masculine authority and feminine elegance.
A woman wearing a suit is anything but masculine. A strict, clean cut accentuates her femininity, her seductiveness, her ambiguity.
Yves Saint Laurent
The Initial Shock: Society’s Response
When Le Smoking first appeared on the runway in 1966, it created an immediate sensation—and scandal. Many critics were outraged. Traditional restaurants and hotels initially refused entry to women wearing the suit. The controversy only fueled its appeal among progressive women who saw Le Smoking as a symbol of emancipation.
Perhaps no incident better illustrates the social upheaval caused by Le Smoking than the notorious evening at La Côte Basque, one of New York’s most exclusive restaurants. In 1968, socialite and fashion icon Nan Kempner arrived wearing her YSL smoking suit, only to be stopped at the door. She was informed that women wearing trousers would not be permitted to enter the establishment.
What happened next became fashion legend. Kempner, known for her quick wit and determination, simply removed her trousers in the restaurant’s lobby, wearing the jacket as a mini-dress. The restaurant had no choice but to seat her, as their dress code didn’t prohibit ultra-short dresses. This act of defiance became a symbol of the absurdity of such gender-based dress codes and highlighted the revolutionary power of Le Smoking.
‘A Moment of Liberation’
The incident made headlines and became a rallying cry for women who saw the dress code restrictions as symptomatic of broader social inequality. The controversy spread beyond New York. Similar incidents occurred at prestigious establishments across Europe and America. Some venues specifically added “no women in trousers” to their dress codes in response to Le Smoking’s growing popularity. However, these restrictions only served to increase the suit’s appeal among progressive women who saw it as both a fashion statement and a political one.
It was a moment of liberation. If they wouldn’t let me wear the pants, I’d show them just how dated their rules really were.
Nan Kempner
The resistance to Le Smoking in conservative circles ironically contributed to its mystique and desirability. Each incident of rejection seemed to add to its revolutionary appeal, transforming it from a mere garment into a symbol of female empowerment. The more the establishment pushed back, the more women embraced the suit as their uniform of liberation.
For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashion comes and goes, but style is forever.
Yves Saint Laurent
Cultural Impact: Beyond Fashion
Le Smoking quickly transcended its status as mere clothing to become a cultural phenomenon. Photographer Helmut Newton‘s famous 1975 photograph of a woman in Le Smoking, cigarette in hand, on a dimly lit Parisian street, captured the suit’s essence: power, sexuality, and defiance of traditional gender roles.
The suit became a favorite among influential women of the era. Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger, and Lauren Bacall all embraced Le Smoking, helping to cement its status as an icon of female empowerment. Each woman who wore it added her own interpretation to its story.
Evolution and Legacy
Over the years, Saint Laurent created numerous variations of Le Smoking, each reflecting the changing times while maintaining the original’s revolutionary spirit. From cropped jackets to long coats, from narrow-cut trousers to palazzo pants, the designer continued to reinvent his creation throughout his career.
Today, Le Smoking’s influence can be seen everywhere in fashion. The women’s tuxedo has become a staple in both haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. Its impact extends beyond fashion into the broader cultural conversation about gender, power, and identity.
The Technical Revolution
What made Le Smoking truly revolutionary was not just its social impact but its technical innovation. Saint Laurent worked closely with his tailors to develop new techniques for adapting traditionally masculine construction methods to the female form. The shoulders were structured but not overwhelming, the waist subtly defined, the trousers cut to accommodate feminine curves while maintaining their straight line.
Impact on Modern Fashion
Le Smoking’s influence on contemporary fashion cannot be overstated. From corporate power suits to red carpet appearances, the women’s tuxedo has become a symbol of confidence and sophistication. Modern designers continue to reference and reinterpret Le Smoking, proving its enduring relevance.
10 Lesser-Known Facts About Le Smoking
- The first Le Smoking prototype was actually created in secret, with Saint Laurent working after hours with his favorite tailor to perfect the cut.
- The name “Le Smoking” came from the English smoking jacket, but Saint Laurent chose to keep the French article “Le” to maintain its masculine association.
- The original buttons were specially commissioned and made by a Parisian artisan who typically worked only on men’s formal wear.
- Saint Laurent created a specific shade of black for Le Smoking that would photograph differently under various lights.
- The first Le Smoking was actually rejected by several fashion magazines who refused to feature women in pants.
- Saint Laurent’s partner, Pierre Bergé, initially opposed the idea, fearing it would alienate their conservative clientele.
- The designer created a special inner construction technique that allowed the jacket to appear structured while remaining comfortable—a secret that remained within the house for years.
- The original Le Smoking included a custom-made cummerbund designed to flatter the female waist—a detail often overlooked in historical accounts.
- Saint Laurent insisted that Le Smoking be sold with a specific shirt, featuring ruffles that were slightly smaller than those on men’s tuxedo shirts.
- The first public appearance of Le Smoking was almost cancelled when a prominent fashion critic threatened to walk out of the show.
A Timeless Revolution
Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking did more than change how women dress; it changed how society views women’s relationship with power and sexuality. In creating a suit that borrowed from men’s fashion while celebrating feminine strength, Saint Laurent didn’t just design a garment—he designed a revolution that continues to resonate today.